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Well I thought I would write a conclusion to this story. After replacing the HES with aftermarket units - twice, the rotor, the diode board, the regulator, the coil and the ICU I still had this won't run over 1400 rpm when the D+/Df terminals were shorted. In frustration I got a used bean can off eB...

I know it wouldn't happen with points - but then you'd have points. I really like electronic ignitions - once they work. It's pretty set and forget. I've installed TriSparks in all 3 of my old Nortons and it transformed them from lumps of aluminum and oil into actual motorcycles...

-- David

Well, got my new diode board and installed it. Now I've replaced the ICU, Regulator, Hall effect sensor, Diode board and rotor. Guess what? Still dies above about 1500 rpm - right where the alternator starts producing. My new, and maybe last, theory is the magnetic field being generated by the alter...

I agree it's time for parts substituting. I still have the old ECU, which I think is good (turned out THAT problem was with Hall effect sensor). I also have a new diode board coming. I'll try swapping those and see what happens. Any more thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks! David

I spent some more time on this and here's the latest. I'm 99% sure it's NOT the battery. After an overnight charge, cranking the engine for 30 sec, the voltage went down to about 11.9v. Immediately returned to 12.8 after. I call that good. I then jumpered the D+/Df at the regulator connector again, ...

I just put a new EME ICU in. My understanding is it is more resilient to voltage excursions than the stock unit. Good idea on monitoring the voltage at the coil. I'll give that a try. Thanks! David

I was wrong. Just retested the battery, after an over night charge it was sitting at about 13.2v. Lights on and cranking went to 11.3 in 30 sec. After cranking - no start, goes back up to 12.9. That looks good to me.

No, I haven't tried a different battery - I don't really have one to try. The one that's in there is about 2 years old and seems to hold a charge OK. Voltage at rest is about 12.3v.

Thanks for your help!

Yes, charge light goes on with ignition, and goes off above 1500 or so.

I'm working on a friends 81 R65LS and believe I have a charging problem. Symptom - If I put a voltmeter across the battery and rev the bike up to over 3500 RPM, the indicated voltage only gets to 12.6v. (I also think the battery has been discharging, but since I've been working on it - it goes on th...