Replacing the transmission rubber boot

[Jeff in W.C.]

I need to replace the rubber boot on the back of the transmission--the one underneath the clutch activator arm. In taking a quick look, it appears as though I need to move the swing are back in order to R&R the boot. Is it possible to replace the boot without moving the swing arm back? Granted it looks like a royal PITA to do it that way, but still may be preferred to moving the swing arm.

Before I forget--1988 R100 RT

[Airbear]

Moving the swing arm back is not that big a deal. If you haven't done it before, budget for a good half day.

Remove the boot clamps then use the rear brake to hold the driveshaft stationary while you loosen the 4 driveshaft bolts. Then remove the rear wheel and support the final drive on a box or something similar. Use a 27mm socket with a reduced outside diameter - you can grind it down to size with a bench grinder or preferably a lathe - and remove the swing arm pivots. You may be able to swing the final drive rearwards sufficiently with the shock still attached, bolts loosened. Tie it back to the rear mudguard or sub-frame. If not, remove the shock and you'll have the swing arm and final drive on the floor.

Put it back together in reverse order, with special attention to getting the driveshaft bolts tight enough - rear wheel on and foot on brake. I have always found it best to remove the battery to provide better access when fitting the boot. It can be tricky to get on but you'll manage with care and some appropriate expletives. When fitting the swing arm pivots you need to match the gap each side between swing arm and frame and there is a specific preloading method. Check your manual.

O, and while you are 'in there' it is advisable to pull the transmission to clean and grease the input splines and check for leaks. Have I forgotten anything? Have fun.

[Duane Ausherman]

I guess I misread the question. The boot "the one underneath the clutch activator arm" is the small one, not the one with two clamps.

You didn't tell us the year and model.

Depends upon the space available to the swing arm. Remove the clutch cable, remove the clip retainer for the pivot pin. The pin should drop out and give room to remove and install.

[Airbear]

... The boot "the one underneath the clutch activator arm" is the small one, not the one with two clamps.

Oops!

[Rob]

I guess I misread the question. The boot "the one underneath the clutch activator arm" is the small one, not the one with two clamps.

You didn't tell us the year and model.

Depends upon the space available to the swing arm. Remove the clutch cable, remove the clip retainer for the pivot pin. The pin should drop out and give room to remove and install.

He did tell us the year and model.

And I think it is a different set-up than Duane or Airbear are used to. It is the later throwout arm, etc.




This is the old one:

[Airbear]

Ah, there you go. Thanks Rob.
I think it's time Duane and I stopped sharing our meds and reliving the 70s.

[Duane Ausherman]

Airbear said, "I think it's time Duane and I stopped sharing our meds and reliving the 70s."

I think that you are right about that one.

Since I have never worked on those "new" models that are after 1981, I should have kept quiet.

[Airbear]

Airbear said, "I think it's time Duane and I stopped sharing our meds and reliving the 70s."

I think that you are right about that one.

Since I have never worked on those "new" models that are after 1981, I should have kept quiet.

And I think I'm heading to the age when I can grumble whenever I like and use adjectives like "new-fangled" with impunity.

To Jeff in W.C. - have you figured out what needs to be done to get to that gosh-darn new fangled boot?

[Rob]

And Jeff, all of my experience was with the older style.
I do know that with those, small fingers helped.

[ME 109]

No need to pull the swingarm back as far as I know with a mono.
Just unbolt the arm, and unscrew the boot clamp and pull it off.
Might pay to disconnect the clutch cable at the arm, first.

The rubber boot is held onto the arm by a 10mm nut and washer.