Boxerworks.com

PITAPLAKAPan, uh......................never mind.--- fergeddit.

Duane Ausherman wrote:The engine came from a 1970, or 71 R50/5, so originally it was a 180 watt job. I didn't pay attention if it had been changed. I think that the rotor is the major part of the larger capacity. I haven't removed it yet.

The rotor could have been changed, but I have no history.

Someone rounded out the Allen bolt heads, so I have to cut it off. What a pain.

The stator was re-wired for more power with a diode board to match (another connection). The rotor resistance changed at some point---was about 7 ohm early.

Check out:

http://www.sockitout.com/products.html

I don't have a metric set but I can sneak one on a metric fastener here and there and they work. I use a lot of stainless and it strips like crazy.

robert wrote:PITAPLAKAPan, uh......................never mind.--- fergeddit.

After reviewing 7 pages of your posting history, I didn't find a single comment you made that was worth reading. Nothing witty much less funny, nothing interesting, informative or even particularly bright. In fact several were pretty stupid.

You're one of these forum rats that just babbles a lot without putting any pixels on the screen that do anything whatsoever for my life. In short, an utter waste.

Cya.

PITAPan wrote:

robert wrote:PITAPLAKAPan, uh......................never mind.--- fergeddit.

After reviewing 7 pages of your posting history, I didn't find a single comment you made that was worth reading. Nothing witty much less funny, nothing interesting, informative or even particularly bright. In fact several were pretty stupid.

You're one of these forum rats that just babbles a lot without putting any pixels on the screen that do anything whatsoever for my life. In short, an utter waste.

Cya.

You don't know Robert like a lot of us here do.
Cya.

Thunder child have been making replacement Diode boards for at least 20 years, my old one still works fine.

The 450W kit ones are really nice, but it is very easy to short out one of the + connectors when removing the outer cover, so disconnecting the battery is a must.

daz wrote:

SteveD wrote:There's also Thunderchild. They're good.
I expect any of them will work ok and as good if not better than oem.
You could try John aka Bulldust over @ Advrider. He's in Brisvegas.

Steve, I can't find rally-sport-imports@bigpond.com. Are they still in business?

Yep. That's his email addy. John is in Queensland, Oz.

PITAPan wrote:

robert wrote:PITAPLAKAPan, uh......................never mind.--- fergeddit.

After reviewing 7 pages of your posting history, I didn't find a single comment you made that was worth reading. Nothing witty much less funny, nothing interesting, informative or even particularly bright. In fact several were pretty stupid.

You're one of these forum rats that just babbles a lot without putting any pixels on the screen that do anything whatsoever for my life. In short, an utter waste.

Cya.

I think what most of us like about Robert is that he's not a dick.

While the children are bickering let's talk about bbelk's arse. I guess it's not his actual arse (if it is then I think I'm on the turn) but as it seems to have come with his new brushes it must be a genuine BMW part. Do you have a number for that? Just like a spare diode board it would be comforting to have one of those sitting on my shelf.

I put new brushes in a month or so ago to cure an erratic gen light. There's a thread somewhere about me putting terminals on the wires (hmmm...).

Yes, I understand that a flat battery doesn't necessarily mean trailering the bike home. And I understand the certain frisson that come from never knowing when you're going to break down and need to do some creative wrenching on the side of the road. But I have an old English bike that more than adequately takes care of those needs for me.

I'm guessing that all of the diode boards do the job and cause very few problems. They certainly don't arouse the passions that tyres or oil or even splines do.

I'm tempted to go for the Thunderchild option (aussie! aussie! aussie! oy! oy! oy!...sort of) but I need to do some more testing first. It turns out I'm getting a healthy 13.7 volts at 3000rpm so maybe I've just got a crook battery.

hzbloke wrote: An excellent post. Thanks for that.

By the way, I know you didn't want to know about getting your old DB fixed, but it is worth noting that I know a couple of blokes up this way who understand these bits of magic. Often the problem is only a 'dry' solder joint, as happened to mine, but the diodes can also be replaced.

ps: Wouldn't mind a spare shapely arse on my shelf either, provided it's not bbelk's, of course.

hzbloke wrote: I'm tempted to go for the Thunderchild option (aussie! aussie! aussie! oy! oy! oy!...sort of) but I need to do some more testing first. It turns out I'm getting a healthy 13.7 volts at 3000rpm so maybe I've just got a crook battery.

Thunderchild are USA based.
John in Queensland sells a similar thing, but not Thunderchild. I'm guessing they're sourced from Taiwan where many of these things are from.
Consider some solid mounts too.
http://www.thunderchild-design.com/diodead.html