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You Aussies have some strange names for your towns. Or, is Situ a suburb of a bigger city?SteveD wrote: The swingarm stayed in situ.
I thought Situ was a town in Southern U.S.Chuey wrote:You Aussies have some strange names for your towns. Or, is Situ a suburb of a bigger city?SteveD wrote: The swingarm stayed in situ.
Chuey
I haven't had a chance to go out there and scrape my knuckles and swear a bit while R&R the boot. It's very tight quarters in there. This weekend I'm going away on a weekend trip with my son, so I won't be able to do it this weekend. Hopefully the following weekend.Airbear wrote: To Jeff in W.C. - have you figured out what needs to be done to get to that gosh-darn new fangled boot?
Airbear I found this post very useful as I am lubing the input splines. thanks.Airbear wrote:Moving the swing arm back is not that big a deal. If you haven't done it before, budget for a good half day.
Remove the boot clamps then use the rear brake to hold the driveshaft stationary while you loosen the 4 driveshaft bolts. Then remove the rear wheel and support the final drive on a box or something similar. Use a 27mm socket with a reduced outside diameter - you can grind it down to size with a bench grinder or preferably a lathe - and remove the swing arm pivots. You may be able to swing the final drive rearwards sufficiently with the shock still attached, bolts loosened. Tie it back to the rear mudguard or sub-frame. If not, remove the shock and you'll have the swing arm and final drive on the floor.
Put it back together in reverse order, with special attention to getting the driveshaft bolts tight enough - rear wheel on and foot on brake. I have always found it best to remove the battery to provide better access when fitting the boot. It can be tricky to get on but you'll manage with care and some appropriate expletives. When fitting the swing arm pivots you need to match the gap each side between swing arm and frame and there is a specific preloading method. Check your manual.
O, and while you are 'in there' it is advisable to pull the transmission to clean and grease the input splines and check for leaks. Have I forgotten anything? Have fun.
The face has also been milled off to eliminate the taper on the inside of the socket, allowing for full purchase.The 27mm Swing Arm Tool socket has a shoulder milled on the outer diameter to allow the socket to fit in the swing arm recesses of the frame.
This tool fits all twin shock models.
I recommend that one use the flat socket as shown, but add in a bit of valve grinding compound to keep it from slipping off. I have carried it in my tool box for the past 40 years, or more. I use it often.Rob wrote:Andif you just want to buy a socket for the swingarm nuts, this is a good source (remembering that some sockets will work with no modification):
http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm
The face has also been milled off to eliminate the taper on the inside of the socket, allowing for full purchase.The 27mm Swing Arm Tool socket has a shoulder milled on the outer diameter to allow the socket to fit in the swing arm recesses of the frame.
This tool fits all twin shock models.
I have used a relatively large amount of that stuff, considering I have never ground a valve.Duane Ausherman wrote:I recommend that one use the flat socket as shown, but add in a bit of valve grinding compound to keep it from slipping off. I have carried it in my tool box for the past 40 years, or more. I use it often.