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Re: Final Drive inner rim on some models and not others?
Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 8:22 pm
by jjwithers
I use the yellow canister of propane available at any hardware store.
Texer wrote:Is the best (or the only) way to apply heat by torch? I had used my heat gun on engine parts but sounds weak for this application.
Re: Final Drive inner rim on some models and not others?
Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 8:35 pm
by Ken in Oklahoma
Texer wrote:Is the best (or the only) way to apply heat by torch? I had used my heat gun on engine parts but sounds weak for this application.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure a heat gun will be too weak. You might want to go to Duane's website where he addresses the problem. As I recall he recommends hot enough to make water/spit sizzle. The reason you don't want to press the bearings out is that they will abrade the aluminum housing. You don't want the housing abraded because the bearing to housing clearance opens up and the bearing outer race is more likely to spin, ruining the hub. ($$$) I would use a propane torch. It will get the hub hot enough and the flame isn't as hot or as concentrated as an oxy-acetylene flame would be.
Of course an oxy-acetylene flame can be used if you're used to using one and understand the why of what you need to do.
Correspondingly, when you put the new bearing outer race in, you will also need to heat the hub with the bearing outer race being chilled in a freezer.
Ken
Re: Final Drive inner rim on some models and not others?
Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 8:47 pm
by jjwithers
Using heat, you can press or pound out the bearings. I prefer the press because it is one smooth movement. Pounding or tapping is, well, multiple 'presses' as things start to cool.
If the wheel is still laced to the hub, then it is probably hard to get the wheel to fit into a press. So tapping them out is probably your only option.
Re: Final Drive inner rim on some models and not others?
Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 1:06 am
by Texer
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help.