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I agree it's time for parts substituting. I still have the old ECU, which I think is good (turned out THAT problem was with Hall effect sensor). I also have a new diode board coming. I'll try swapping those and see what happens. Any more thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks! David

Well, got my new diode board and installed it. Now I've replaced the ICU, Regulator, Hall effect sensor, Diode board and rotor. Guess what? Still dies above about 1500 rpm - right where the alternator starts producing. My new, and maybe last, theory is the magnetic field being generated by the alternator is interfering with the Hall effect sensor. Since I replaced the Hall effect sensor with an aftermarket unit, I'm now thinking the new unit has poor magnetic shielding or something. So I found a used beancan on eBay and will try that next.

Thanks, David

Good luck with the new bean can. Hard to think what else it might be.

Like I said earlier I bet it wouldn't happen with points ignition but you'd also need new coils to use a points type bean can.

I know it wouldn't happen with points - but then you'd have points. I really like electronic ignitions - once they work. It's pretty set and forget. I've installed TriSparks in all 3 of my old Nortons and it transformed them from lumps of aluminum and oil into actual motorcycles...

-- David

What was wrong with your original Hall effect ignition unit? What aftermarket unit did you use to replace it?

It's been a long time, but I think I remember an over-charging problem on my Triumph (I know, sounds impossible!) due to the zener diode finally failing to regulate. Actually I think it vibrated off.... It made the bike run rough, very noticeable. And that was with points.

Well I thought I would write a conclusion to this story. After replacing the HES with aftermarket units - twice, the rotor, the diode board, the regulator, the coil and the ICU I still had this won't run over 1400 rpm when the D+/Df terminals were shorted. In frustration I got a used bean can off eBay. Slapped it in and the problem went away! It looks like the aftermarket HES I had used either had a problem with the way I installed them or were not equivalent to the original Honeywell units somehow. Bike is back on the road - thanks to all who tried to help.

-- D