Boxerworks.com

OK members, please refresh me: What parts (bolts, gaskets, tools, etc.) to I need to replace a clutch on an airhead. Not sure what model or year, it is a friends. Thanks.

I am no expert but I am in the process of doing mine for the first time. Here is my wish list.
PS I imagine you would be better off using a local supplier.
cheers

Thin-walled socket for swingarm pivot nuts
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/ ... 5_20_ZA_50

Clutch alignment tool
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/ ... 5_20_ZA_45

Clutch let down tool |
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/ ... 5_20_ZA_45

Clutch bolts
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/ ... 5_20_CA_30

Driveshaft to gearbox universal joint bolts 4 required
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/ ... 5&spPage=2

Torque wrench adapter for driveshaft bolt
http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/tools ... shirts.php

You aren't in the biz, so you only need the tools to do the job once. Here is that list.

Thin walled socket. Yes, but you can grind down a regular one if need be.
Clutch alignment tool. Not needed at all. In the worst case, I just use the transmission itself to do it. It can be done by eyeball.
clutch let down tool. Those are standard 8 mm fine thread bolts. Your local hardware store has them.
Clutch bolts. I assume that you are talking about the 6 bolts that hold it together. I would only replace them if they are messed up. They can be reused forever.
Driveshaft to gearbox universal joint bolts. Again, we only replaced them if they were the poorer type, or messed up.
Torque wrench adapter. Totally not needed. We never once measured the torque on those. We probably did a thousand and not a single one ever came loose. Just make them very tight with the proper wrench.

What you didn't list is a new driveshaft rubber boot. Even if it looks fairly good, we replaced them unless we knew that they were nearly new already.

Good practical advice, Duane. Frugal and effective. I wasn't willing to eyeball the clutch centering (I'm allergic to frustration), and I hadn't even considered using that cumbersome (to me) transmission as a guide. Instead I figured out what was needed and chucked up a piece of hard wood in a lathe and turned my own.

Ken

I would leave the clutch bolts just loose enough so that I am just able to move the friction plate by hand. Then I use the transmission itself as the guide. After the friction plate allows full insertion, I very carefully remove the trans, tighten up the bolts and it is ready to go.

Yes, it takes a few minutes more, but for a time to time method, it is very useful.

The /2 bolts under the tank are the ones to use to remove the pressure on the clutch spring. The /5 doesn't use them, so go buy a couple. In my parts pile I always have them laying around.

The /3 is a whole different animal.