Also, if I get them out, is there a particular way of inserting them in the good pair of barrels i.e loctite them in etc . Any advice appreciated
Barrel stud removal
Barrel stud removal
Hopefully this will be a simple one....I have a pair of 1978 R100 barrels that have been bored out to 2nd o/s, but have had the two threaded studs removed for some reason; the ones that are 12 and 6 o'clock. I also have a couple of barrels from the same year that have the studs in place, but are totally worn out in the bores. Is there a simple method of removing those two threaded studs from the stuffed jugs and putting them in the good ones? I thought about tightening up up a couple of nuts against each other, and then trying to unscrew them counterclockwise, but would like some advice before I bugger something up.
Also, if I get them out, is there a particular way of inserting them in the good pair of barrels i.e loctite them in etc . Any advice appreciated
Also, if I get them out, is there a particular way of inserting them in the good pair of barrels i.e loctite them in etc . Any advice appreciated
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Duane Ausherman
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Re: Barrel stud removal
I would try that method, but expect that the stud won't come out easily. I would expect to put it in the oven first and get it up to around 300 F.
Ask the Indians what happens when you don't control immigration.
Re: Barrel stud removal
Thanks Duane; do you think heating the area around the stud with a heat gun would do the trick instead of roasting it in the oven. I'll have to run from the kitchen down to the shed with a boiling hot barrel to mount it in a vice otherwise!
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Duane Ausherman
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Re: Barrel stud removal
Yes, it will just take a long time and when it is in the oven, you can do something else. Be sure to keep checking the heat. You want "spit dance" heat, not just "spit sizzle" heat.
Ask the Indians what happens when you don't control immigration.
Re: Barrel stud removal
I'm stealing this line and adding valuable information to my personal workshop manual, "A Luddite's Guide to Technical Terminology". Thank you, Duane, for my first chuckle of the day.Duane Ausherman wrote: <snip> Be sure to keep checking the heat. You want "spit dance" heat, not just "spit sizzle" heat.
Monte
1981 R65
1983 R65
1978 R100S
1995 Triumph Trophy
1983 R65
1978 R100S
1995 Triumph Trophy
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Duane Ausherman
- Posts: 6008
- Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:39 pm
- Location: Galt California
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Re: Barrel stud removal
You are welcome. We didn't have these modern day laser temp guns back in the day. It was with those terms that we repaired BMWs. It worked. Later I checked the temps with a laser gun and the "sizzle" is from boiling up to around 240 F and the "dance" is around 270 F and higher.
Ask the Indians what happens when you don't control immigration.
Re: Barrel stud removal
I removed the shock stud from a rear drive the other day. It wasn't budging using double nuts and heat, they kept spinning on the threads, but when we went to triple nuts, off it came.