Ideas for Brush Replacement?

[jjwithers]

You have to unscrew the inside nuts. And I have a bent wrench. Sometimes it takes some strategic tapping on the wrench to loosen the nuts.

[Nailhead]

You have to unscrew the inside nuts. And I have a bent wrench. Sometimes it takes some strategic tapping on the wrench to loosen the nuts.

Excellent. Thank you.

Anyone know if a MAPP gas torch burns hot enough to bend a wrench?

[enigmaT120]

I found Joel's post in the Airlist archives:

From: Joel Rappoport <pumblechook@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 22:36:10 -0400
Cc: airheads@xxxxxxxxxxxx
In-reply-to: <DE08D5B2-B1FD-44AA-8FF6-92A8834F892C@sbcglobal.net>
Sender: airheads-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxx


On May 3, 2009, at 5:56 PM, karpowicz wrote:

> Replacing brushes on the Bosch alternator

Ken.
I've never removed the brush holder to change brushes, not in 500,000
miles. I used to remove the stator and solder them in place with the
holder still atached.

Here is what I've been doing for the past 250,000 miles. You may not
want to but it makes things easier down the road.

I remove the Rotor and the Stator windings.

Take tension off of the springs and remove the springs but remember
how they fit back on.

You can unsolder or just clip the brush leads at the point where they
are soldered to the holder.

Take the new brushes and crimp a screw terminal connector, uninsulated
and sized for the post where the male 1/4" lugs are held by small
nuts. Theses are the two lugs that you push the female connectors on
at the front of the alternator. You can solder these crimped lugs if
you wish but be careful that the solder does not run up the brush wire
and make it inflexible.

Put the inside (to the engine) spring back in place and under correct
tension and have it sit on the inside edge of the brush holder so you
can drop the brush in by it.

Reassemble the stator and rotor on the engine.

Put the screw terminals you crimped in place on the brush leads under
each 1/4" male lug and gently tighten the nut holding it in place.

Place the rear brush in the brush holder and then using a small tool
move the spring to the front and it will drop on top of the brush.

Put in the front brush and put on the spring.

Your done.

Next time you need to change brushes all you have to do is raise the
springs, remove the brushes, undo the nuts holding the male lugs (and
now the brush connectors), swap brushes, drop in place and move the
springs back. Takes less than 15 minutes and that includes removing
the ground wire, front timing cover and replacing both at the end. No
soldering ever again. In fact, this is how Motorrad Elektric now
sends out brushes for the Omega charging upgrade and Rick will supply
brushes with lugs for regular service.

Ride safely


Joel Rappoport
1976 R60/6
http://rappoport.ws

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[Nailhead]

I found Joel's post in the Airlist archives:

From: Joel Rappoport <pumblechook@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 22:36:10 -0400
Cc: airheads@xxxxxxxxxxxx
In-reply-to: <DE08D5B2-B1FD-44AA-8FF6-92A8834F892C@sbcglobal.net>
Sender: airheads-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxx


On May 3, 2009, at 5:56 PM, karpowicz wrote:

> Replacing brushes on the Bosch alternator

Ken.
I've never removed the brush holder to change brushes, not in 500,000
miles. I used to remove the stator and solder them in place with the
holder still atached.

Here is what I've been doing for the past 250,000 miles. You may not
want to but it makes things easier down the road.

I remove the Rotor and the Stator windings.

Take tension off of the springs and remove the springs but remember
how they fit back on.

You can unsolder or just clip the brush leads at the point where they
are soldered to the holder.

Take the new brushes and crimp a screw terminal connector, uninsulated
and sized for the post where the male 1/4" lugs are held by small
nuts. Theses are the two lugs that you push the female connectors on
at the front of the alternator. You can solder these crimped lugs if
you wish but be careful that the solder does not run up the brush wire
and make it inflexible.

Put the inside (to the engine) spring back in place and under correct
tension and have it sit on the inside edge of the brush holder so you
can drop the brush in by it.

Reassemble the stator and rotor on the engine.

Put the screw terminals you crimped in place on the brush leads under
each 1/4" male lug and gently tighten the nut holding it in place.

Place the rear brush in the brush holder and then using a small tool
move the spring to the front and it will drop on top of the brush.

Put in the front brush and put on the spring.

Your done.

Next time you need to change brushes all you have to do is raise the
springs, remove the brushes, undo the nuts holding the male lugs (and
now the brush connectors), swap brushes, drop in place and move the
springs back. Takes less than 15 minutes and that includes removing
the ground wire, front timing cover and replacing both at the end. No
soldering ever again. In fact, this is how Motorrad Elektric now
sends out brushes for the Omega charging upgrade and Rick will supply
brushes with lugs for regular service.

Ride safely


Joel Rappoport
1976 R60/6
http://rappoport.ws

______________________________________________________________________
GENERAL Airheads MAILING LIST INFORMATION:
This is from the Airheads mailing list. Airheads@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://micapeak.com/mailman/listinfo/airheads
You subscribed to this mailing list. Therefore, you solicited all
mail that you receive from this list. Therefore, ANY mail that you
receive from this list is, by definition, NOT Spam, and if you report
it as such, you are violating the micapeak.com terms of service.

To unsubscribe, you may send email to airheads-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxx
______________________________________________________________________
YOUR PERSONAL SUBSCRIBER OPTIONS:
Unsubscribe or choose new options at
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There you go-- we have a winner. I'll do this.

That is an excellent idea. Thanks very much!