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Re: No Nut!
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 3:24 pm
by robert
Bamboo812 wrote:Cush drive Mono Shock? There's a snap ring:

Part #7 slides over the top of the snapring. Push #6 down compressing the spring, then tap #7 down and the snapring #8 will be visible.
Re: No Nut!
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:50 pm
by Garnet
Chuey wrote:
Chuey
Has the threaded portion of the shaft snapped off sometime in the distant past?
Re: No Nut!
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:00 am
by ME 109
robert wrote:Bamboo812 wrote: Push #6 down compressing the spring, then tap #7 down and the snapring #8 will be visible.
I can see my ring without pulling anything down.
Re: No Nut!
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 3:22 am
by SteveD
ME 109 wrote:robert wrote:Bamboo812 wrote: Push #6 down compressing the spring, then tap #7 down and the snapring #8 will be visible.
I can see my ring without pulling anything down.
Digital or exhaust
edit: No, I've decided I don't want to know! 
Re: No Nut!
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:13 am
by Chuey
Garnet wrote:Chuey wrote:
Chuey
No. It is clear that it was made that way. It does have some marks (indentations) that look like they were made by some kind of punching action. In the middle of the shaft is a detent that is clearly a pocket for a lathe center.
Chuey
Has the threaded portion of the shaft snapped off sometime in the distant past?
Re: No Nut!
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:12 am
by jagarra
I agree it was made that way too, one can see the tool marks on the end from the lathe bit. The problem is how to support the hub portion while pressing down on the shaft. Do you have access to a press 12 ton or higher?
Looks like the side access is limited to the diameter of the housing, is there a step behind the hub that can be grabbed.
Like I asked before do you think that the housing and that mounting flange is strong enough to get the hub red with a torch and just support the flange and press the shaft with a press?
Re: No Nut!
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:34 am
by Chuey
I tried with the Cycle Works tool made for solid shafts. It has a collar/girdle that holds the splined cup and then has a puck that pushes against the end of the shaft (just talkin' 'bout Shaft). It did not budge. Also tried the other tool, the one for the sprung shafts and it did not compress at all either.
I'm thinking of taking it to a BMW dealer today to see if they can remove it. Thing is, if it's so hard to remove, I'm not sure I want to use it. I may seek out a nutted shaft for this project.
Chuey
Re: No Nut!
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:36 am
by Chuey
Major Softie wrote:Man, I looked through the fiche of a bunch of different years, and I can't figure out that the hell is going on with this thing.
Thank you for checking up on that. You are a much better searcher than I.
Chuey
Re: No Nut!
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 1:43 pm
by jagarra
Chuey, I can understand your dilemma. Having worked in the repair business for 4 decades we sometimes had to sacrifice an assembly to see how it was put together. In this case probably replacing is the best solution.
Here is a listing from an e-bay seller I have had great success with in the quality of the parts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Motorcycle- ... 35e50f4241
gg
Re: I was wrong
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:18 pm
by Chuey
I was wrong about the shaft being a solid vs sprung one.
This morning I took the swingarm to the BMW dealer and when they see an Airhead part come in, they send you directly to Paul. Paul took a look at it and said, sure, he could remove it - it takes a special tool. He said it was a sprung one. "There are only two types", he said. Robert is probably shaking his head right now.
Here's the reason I was so sure it was a solid shaft: I thought the large diameter swingarm corresponded with the sprung drive shaft. Also, I thought that the cush drive shaft would not fit into the older style swingarm.
Further, I had used the Cycle Works tool to remove two cush drive shafts from large diameter swingarms successfully. When I tried the same tool, the correct one for sprung (cush drive) shafts on this one, it simply started to bend the plate at the universal joint end without any apparent movement of the splined cup on the splines. I was not able to find a gap in the snap ring.
Sorry for the wild goose chase.
Thank you to all who tried to help.
Chuey