As a first time BMW owner, please let me say hello,
I came across a deal that I could not pass up a couple of weeks ago, the bike was just too clean! Even though I didn't need another bike, I bought my first Airhead, this little bike is awesome! I'm going to make some modifications to the bike, but nothing to the point where it can't be returned to 100% stock. I will be replacing the large stock mufflers with some shorter, more free flowing ones soon. What jetting adjustments do you recommend for making this change. (PS. I will not be changing the stock intake)
And also, the previous owner added a large capacity oil pan to the bike. What oil is recommended, and how much?
Those are not the stock carbs that the 60/5 came with so specific advice on jetting isn't going to be realistic. Probably won't need changing anyway but that may depend how well those carbs were set up. They are known as flat top Bings and were only fitted to some later models in 78-80. The original carbs would have been slide type Bings rather than CV's
Use a good quality 20W50. Again oil quantity for a non stock pan is uncertain. Start by assuming min of 2.5 litres. Take a look here for info on pans and dipsticks http://www.largiader.com/tech/oilpan/
barryh wrote:Those are not the stock carbs that the 60/5 came with so specific advice on jetting isn't going to be realistic. Probably won't need changing anyway but that may depend how well those carbs were set up. They are known as flat top Bings and were only fitted to some later models in 78-80. The original carbs would have been slide type Bings rather than CV's
Use a good quality 20W50. Again oil quantity for a non stock pan is uncertain. Start by assuming min of 2.5 litres. Take a look here for info on pans and dipsticks http://www.largiader.com/tech/oilpan/
Thanks Barryh,
I have been looking at pictures of R60'5's, and I thought my carbs might not be the ones that the bike came with? Thanks for confirming it for me!
As far as the oil, is synthetic ok? I use only Mobil 1/Amsoil in my cars, but I know some of the older engines don't like synthetics.
Stick to dino SG rated. They don't want or need any new fangled thin expensive oil. They usually let you know by trying to lose that oil out thru the seals. Waste of money.
Get a beverage then search this forum using zddp as the term. You'll have a ton of reading that very quickly turns to being repetitive. It's one of those perennial discussions...
Re the mufflers, see if you can source some hoske mufflers.
I would agree with the others...non standard carbs means you're going to have start with some basic settings and evaluate performance throughout the range of operation as well as do some plug checks. Then you can make some changes to the carbs. Note that the basics are that the idle circuit is effective up to about 25% of throttle, the needle jet from about 15% to 80% of throttle, and the main jet from about 60% to wide open. This comes from the Bing manual.
I could be wrong, here, and I will be corrected if I am, but, providing you still have the original oil dipstick, fill it to halfway between the low and full mark.
Don't ever fill it to the Full mark. The crankcase needs that extra room to breathe when both cylinders move to BDC.
Measure the oil with the dipstick resting on the crankcase, not screwed in.
And I agree, don't waste your money on synthetic. Not even a blend.
You may not like the look of the mufflers, but they work, and if they are not rusted out, the bike would probably be better off than with some straight-through type.
edit: I just read your tag-line. Apparently you want a loud bike. *sigh*
With the flat-top Bings, the diaphragms are held onto the slide using a white nylon ring. The ring has to be pried off to replace the diaphragm, and after a few R/Rs, it can become enlarged and not hold things together any longer. Check with Bing Agency, USA (if you are in North America) for replacements. It used to be you had to replace the entire slide assembly with new diaphragms, but the good folks at Bing finally wised up.
Also, stick with Bing diaphragms. There are some others out there that tend to be made of thicker rubber, that doesn't flex so easily.
If you like the original, black braided fuel line, be prepared to replace it every 3-5 years. It rots out pretty quickly with today's "fuel".
For winter storage, I always drained the fuel from my tank and let it dry out. This prevents the hassle of fuel stabilizer, and allows you to exorcise any water & other contaminates from the tank. After 35 years, I still had a tank with the original liner in very good condition.
Petcocks will also need servicing every 10 years or so.
You certainly don't need synthetic especially in a warmer climate but I've used semi and fully synthetic oil for years without any leakage issues. I choose to use it because I ride right through the winter. Some owners do report leaks with synthetic but these days there's no reason why it should cause leaks because the thing is the majority of synthetic oils are not really synthetic any more they are Group 3 highly refined mineral oils or more recently GTL (Gas to liquid) technology. If synthetic is what you have on the shelf there is no harm in trying it.
